Travel Guide to Italy

7/26/2018

Travel Guide to Italy

Even though I’m still a bit jet-lagged from our trip to Italy, I’m already dreaming of going back! Between the insanely delicious food, the romantic cities, gorgeous sites, the Aperol Spritzes (order one, trust me!), and the Italian lifestyle that just forces you to slow down and enjoy every moment, it’s definitely become my happy place! As I was sharing our daily adventures on my insta stories, I got a ton of a requests for a “guide to Italy” with all of our favorite restaurants, hotels, and activities. So I used the long flight home to get all the details in one place and I’m super excited to share it with you! Please send me a message or comment on this post if you end up going to any of these spots… I’ll be so excited to hear about your experience there!! Allora i miei amici, here we go…
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Venice

Venice is so romantic and beautiful, and it's so cool and different to travel everywhere via boat through the canals. It’s definitely crowded and touristy (especially during our trip in July) but worth a visit for sure!
 
Hotel:
We stayed at Bauers Palladio Hotel & Spa, which I would 100% recommend. It's on the Giudecca side of Venice out of the hustle and bustle - definitely a nice break from the crowds and craziness. Its absolutely beautiful with an incredible garden on the property, and they provide a water taxi that takes you across the lagoon to and from the sister hotel, Bauers Palazzo, which is very central to all of the main attractions (just a 4 min ride over there). Also, breakfast is included, which always makes me happy!
 
Eats & Sweets:

• Osteria Enoteca San Marco – cozy restaurant with great pici pesto pasta
• Riviera – right on the water, very romantic, great service. The owner is super sweet and takes care of everyone there. The food was a little fancy for us, but if you’re into tasting menus, this would be the place. My fave was the crudo sashimi 8-ways.
• Ae Botte Osteria or Ae Botte Pizzeria – 2 restaurants right next door to each other on the Giudecca side, right on the water. A good option if you're looking for something on the Giudecca side close to Bauers Palladio, but I think there are better options across the lagoon.
• I Tre Mercanti – if you like tiramisu, this place is famous for making the best tiramisu in a couple different flavors – original, Nutella, and pistachio. Yum!
• We didn’t have great gelato in Venice. We went to Fantasy gelato, which the concierge recommended but it definitely wasn’t worth it in my opinion! A friend recommended Ca D'Oro for gelato but we didn't make it there.
• Go up to the rooftop at the Bauers Pallazo during sunset and order an Aperol Spritz!

 
Places we missed out on but were recommended:

• Harry’s Bar – this is where the bellini was invented. We tried to go but they have a strict dress code and Mitch was in shorts, so if you want to go, make sure your man wears pants! (Or you could go in the afternoon and they don’t have the same dress code.)
• Ai Mercanti - this was a recommendation I had received when I polled instagram, but we didn't get a chance to eat here. The photos look delish though!

 
Things to see and do:

• Burano – less than an hour away from Venice by water taxi. It's the most colorful city in the world and it was definitely a fun place to visit. You only really need two hours there, an hour for lunch (make a reservation at Trattoria al Gatto Nero) and an hour or so to walk around. I’d recommend arranging drop off and pick up from Burano through your hotel. We got dropped off there, which was great, but decided to take the public transportation boats back, which took close to 2 hours.   
• Murano – this is where they make the famous Murano glass. You could probably skip it – they basically give you a 2 minute demonstration of how they turn the glass into a horse or a vase (which is actually really cool!) but then they take you through the store for 45 minutes and pitch you on buying everything in there!
• Walk through the streets of Venice, see the main sites, take a gondola ride, and do some shopping.
• Download the Rick Steve's Audio Europe app and listen to a few of podcasts as he walks you through some of the main tourist attactions. Then you can see the main sites and have a general idea of what you’re seeing with some fun facts here and there, without needing to do a whole tour (much more our style!).

Highlight of our time in Venice:
The highlight of our Venice trip was the fact that we were there during Redentore. We had no idea when we booked it, but it was such an awesome thing to experience! Redentore is an annual celebration in Venice that’s basically a giant party where the city is filled with people picnicking along the water and having parties on their boats. They build a bridge just for that one day that connects the two sides of Venice, and they have an absolutely INSANE fireworks show that night. It seriously puts our 4th of July to shame! It was a 45 minute show and was unlike anything I’ve ever seen! I’m a huge fireworks girl, so I’d brave Venice in July again just to experience that one more time!! 
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Verona

Verona is a charming little town, best known for being the city where Romeo & Juliet lived. There are two centers there, Piazza Bra and Piazza Erbe. In Piazza Bra, you’ll find the famous Arena di Verona, which is a historic coliseum arena where you’re still able to go and see shows, operas, and concerts. Check their website to see if any shows are happening while you’re there. If you can see a show, do it! Even if it's Opera and that's not something you're into, seeing a show there is an awesome experience that you don't want to miss. In the other piazza, Piazza Erbe, you’ll find a lot of restaurants, bars, and places to shop for little trinkets and souvenirs.
 
Hotel:
I Due Torri – great location & breakfast is included
 
Eats & Sweets:

• Du de Cope – casual restaurant with great pizza & big salads. Sometimes it’s tough to find a big salad in Italy, so I was very excited to have a delicious one here. Definitely some of the best pizza we had on our trip! Go for lunch (it’s closed for dinner).
• La Romana Gelato – OMG I'm still dreaming of this gelato! It's the best I’ve ever had, and I’ve had a lot of gelato! Not only is the gelato incredible, but they also have the option to add white chocolate or melted Nutella in the bottom of your cone. You know when you’re usually so sad when you get to your last bite? Well this makes the last bite even better than the first! So freaking good.

 
Places we missed out on but were recommended (per my friend Betsy who lived there): 

• Antica Bottega Del Vino – old restaurant, probably the nicest in the city, a must go to, ask to go into the wine celler, they have one of the best wine lists you’ll find. Wish we could have made it there!
• 12 Apostoli – old formal restaurant, the basement has the old walls of Verona
• Trattoria Al Pompiere – casual spot with great pizza. Go for dinner - we looked at the menu here and wanted to go for lunch, but sadly it was closed. Looked delicious though!

Things to see and do:

• Visit Romeo’s house & Juliet’s balcony. Write a note to leave on Juliet’s wall – touristy and crowded but cute!
• Walk / hike up to Castel San Pietro for a gorgeous view of Verona
• Go see a show at the Arena

 
Other Verona recs from Betsy, which require a car:

• Masi winery, in the hills outside of Verona
• Cooking class
• Lake Garda - sail on the lake, get lunch near the lake

Highlight of our time in Verona:
Lenny Kravitz happened to be playing in the Arena the night we were in Verona. It was sold out, but we totally lucked out when we met the nicest couple in the lobby of our hotel who was looking to give away two extra tickets to the show. We offered to pay for the tickets or treat the couple to dinner, but they said they just wanted to give the tickets to two nice people out of the kindness of their hearts! So nice. We had amazing seats and had the best time. Definitely one of my favorite parts of our trip!
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Lake Como

George Clooney definitely wouldn’t steer us wrong. Lake Como is one of the most gorgeous places I’ve ever seen! It’s the perfect place to slow down and take a leisurely break from the touring and site seeing that you’re typically doing in Europe. It doesn’t get much better than sipping a spritz while lounging at a pool and staring at the gorgeous view of the lake.
 
Hotel:
We were in Lake Como for our friends' wedding at the incredible Villa d'Este, but we stayed at the new Hilton Lake Como which was about a 5 minute drive away. It’s centrally located, very modern, breakfast is included (can you tell that part is important to me!?), and they have an awesome rooftop pool with a view of Lake Como. Perfect spot to lounge and relax or just to get a drink and an appetizer. There’s definitely something to say about having an American bed, sheets, and pillows when you’ve been traveling for a while… We slept so well there!  And the bathroom was a good size which isn't always the case in these Italian hotels.
 
Since the wedding was at Ville d’Este, we spent a ton of time at that gorgeous hotel and pool. If you’ve never seen it or heard of it, definitely google it and scope out the photos... it's incredible! Such a luxurious, elegant hotel with the most breathtaking views and a pool that’s floating right on the lake. When we weren’t doing wedding activities, we were spending all of our time laying by the pool, jumping in the lake, and paddleboarding!
 
Eats:
Since we were there for our friends' wedding, pretty much all of our meals were already planned, but I’m sure you can’t go wrong with any of the restaurants!

• Albergo Ristorante Giardino -  pizza and salads
• Ristorante Terrazza Barchetta - amazing pizza and caprese salad in Bellagio
• Villa d’Este – if you’re not staying there, go for a meal and to walk around the property!
• Gelateria del Borgo (in Bellagio)

 
Things to see and do:

• The beautiful bride, Jaclyn from A Gold Lining, wrote a post on her blog about things to do in Lake Como. Check it out here! 
• Relax!
• Lake Como is really close to Switzerland so a lot of the wedding guests took a 45-minute train to go explore other cities
• Take a boat out for a couple hours, jump in the water, and check out the incredible villas along the lake (watch out for George’s house!)
• Go to Bellagio for the day, also known as the “Pearl of Lake Como” and wander the charming cobblestone streets, walk into the shops, eat some pizza, and grab a gelato at Gelateria del Borgo

Highlight of our time in Lake Como:
Seeing our friends tie the knot in the most romantic place! And of course, spending time at the Villa d'Este pool and toasting to the new Mr. & Mrs. over Aperol Spritzes (drank too many of those while we were there!)!
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Florence

​My favorite city in the world! I went to a 6-week cooking program in Florence with my best friend in 2013, and it’s held a very special place in my heart ever since. Mitch and I went back 2 years ago (his first time there), and he fell in love with the city just as much as I had. It’s romantic and charming, the food is incredible, and there’s so much to see and experience.
 
Hotel:
Westin Excelsior – we love this charming hotel! It’s located right on the Arno river, very convenient for walking throughout the city, and it happens to be just across the river from my favorite gelato spot (almost too convenient LOL)! The Westin has a beautiful rooftop, which is my favorite place to go at sunset for a drink and aperitivo.
 
Eats & Sweets:

• La Carraia – best gelato in Florence! Didn’t go a day without it. I love their “cookies” flavor!
• Quattro Leoni – located near the Ponte Vecchio. The food is delicious, the ambiance is great, and they bring you prosecco when you sit down which is always a nice touch. We ordered several different things and shared – my favorite way to do it so you get to try a little bit of everything. We loved their Prosciutto e Melone appetizer, arugula (rocket) salad with avocado and pesto, lasagna, fiocchetti pasta (basically like pasta purses filled with pear – so rich but so good, definitely one to share!), and the Bistecca Manzo (a beef filet that comes sliced)
• La Buchetta Food & Wine – one of my most memorable pastas! I ordered the Pici Special, which is a pici pasta (a thick spaghetti) that comes to the table in a whole wheel of pecorino cheese. They toss the piping hot pasta in the wheel of pecorino, then serve it on plate and top it with truffles. I’m drooling just thinking about it! The boys ordered steak here and loved it, and the other girls got the seabass, which was a really delicious and light option if you need a break from the carb overload (but when in Italy, right!?).
• La Cucina di Garga – either go here for dinner or do a cooking class here with Sharon (see below in “things to do” – highly recommend the class!). Try their bruschetta and their famous chicken with avocado & truffle sauce.
• Bar e Cucina – a new restaurant, opened in 2017 by two guys who grew up in Florence with American moms and Italian dads, and take a different spin on traditional Italian food. The food was delicious! We did a “tasting” – you could choose either 3 or 5 options from the menu and they bring them in slightly smaller portions so you have the opportunity to try more. They really make you feel taken care of here – bringing prosecco when you sit down and a special dessert before you leave.

• Via de Neri – if you want aperitivo or a quick sandwich for lunch, this is a great street to walk around. There are several prosciutterias where you can either get a sandwich or order a big charcuterie board with meats, cheeses, breads, dips, etc. Fun to share with friends over a glass of chianti!
• 13 Gobbi (pronounced tray-dee-chee go-bee) – I loved their rigatoni but they’re known for their Florentine Steak (bistecca fiorentina) – definitely not my thing, but people love it. It’s a super thick cut rib-eye steak that’s seasoned with salt and served very rare.
• Trattoria Sostanza - famous "hole in the wall" kind of place known for their chicken breast with butter sauce! They bring it to your table in a skillet with the butter sauce still bubbling and serve it with crusty bread to dip in the sauce. So good. Go there for lunch - you'll need a reservation.
• Ciro & Sons - great casual pizza spot perfect for lunch. One of my favorite places for pizza! They have awesome gluten-free options as well. 
• Gusta pizza – another delicious place to grab a pizza for lunch. If you’re lucky, they’ll make it in a heart-shape for you! 
• Mercato Centrale - this is one of my favorite activities in Florence. The bottom floor is a huge marketplace with tons of different stands - fruit, coffee, pastries, cheeses, meats, etc. Definitely walk around here and get some snacks, and then when you're ready for lunch, go upstairs to their incredible food court. Can’t go wrong with any of the options but we loved their pizza!

​Places we missed out on but were recommended:

• Le Volpi e L’uva – a wine bar on the other side of the Ponte Vecchio. Their crostini (toasted bread with toppings) are supposed to be amazing. Go before dinner for aperitivo and wine, it closes at 9.
• Vini e Vecchi Sapori – a recommendation from my friend Blair – her absolute favorite spot in Florence. We tried to go but couldn’t get a reservation. Per Blair, it’s a no frills, really casual, family-run restaurant with great food and wine. Great atmosphere and really affordable. She recommends the fried chicken entrée (not like fried chicken in the US, instead a thinner batter like calamari). There’s a 7:30 sitting or a 9:30 sitting.
• Il Guscio – a local spot where the Florentines go when they want a delicious dinner out. 

 
Things to see & do:

• Download Rick Steves' Florence Renaissance Walk podcast on his Audio Europe app. It starts you off at the Duomo and walks you through the city to the Ufizzi. The whole thing is 45 mins and is informative, free, and interesting!
• Duomo – definitely climb up to the top
• Mercato Centrale – walk the whole ground floor, grab a coffee and some snacks. Then check out the food court upstairs.
• Uffizi Gallery - lots of sculptures, Botticelli paintings, etc. Have your hotel make a reservation for you so you don't have to wait in the line for hours.
• L'Academie - if you want to see the David, make a reservation here to avoid the line.
• Piazzale Michaelangelo - it is definitely a trek to get up to the Piazzale but it's the best view in the whole city. On your way up, there is a beautiful rose garden!
• Boboli Gardens – beautiful gardens to stroll through. Make sure to walk up to the top where the Porcelain Museum is for a beautiful view.
• Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy – beautiful, looks like a palace. A great place to get a special gift to bring home. I got my mom a bubble bath and lotion here!
• Gucci Garden – fun if you’re into that kind of thing! You can see the original Gucci bags, dresses, accessories, sketches and designs.
• Stroll down the Arno river to the park
• Cooking class at La Cucina di Garga – a must! Garga is a restaurant that my dad has talked about for the last 15 years since he tried their peppercorn steak. When I heard the owner, Sharon, offered cooking classes at the restaurant, I knew we had to do it! Sharon is a wonderful teacher with a really interesting story. We learned how to make homemade pasta, the best bruschetta of my life, their famous chicken with avocado truffle sauce, and mascarpone pudding. She started the class by taking us on our tour of the Mercato Centrale, where you can pick up many of the ingredients you’ll use for the class.
• Go bike riding or wine tasting in Tuscany. You can be in the Chianti / Tuscany region within 20 minutes of leaving Florence. There’s tons of different tours – ask your hotel what they recommend. When I was there in 2013 I did Tuscany Bike Tours, which picks you up in Florence and takes you to a castle, a bike ride through Tuscany, and ends with lunch, wine tasting, and olive oil tasting. When we went this time, we tried Tuscany Cycle which was a very similar itinerary, but a much more difficult bike ride. It said it was beginner level, but joke was on us as we were walking our bikes up a rocky hill! :) Still a great day and a fun way to see Tuscany!
• Get drinks & aperitivo on the Westin Excelsior rooftop!

Highlight of our time in Florence:
My favorite moments in Florence all revolve around food... no surprise there! I absolutely loved our cooking class at La Cucina di Garga, one of my happy places is sitting on the bridge with Mitch, eating La Carraia gelato, and looking at the view of the Ponte Vecchio, and one of my favorite activities is strolling and sampling my way through the Mercato Centrale. Eating that Pici Special from La Buchetta was definitely a highlight, too!

One last thing... I got a lot of questions about outfits while I was there! It was so hot, so I lived in airy sundresses and skirts & t-shirts and always wore a hat (which I bought for 10 euros at a kiosk in Venice). Comfortable shoes are an absolute must! These were my go-to's. 

Whew! We made it! Now I’m hungry for pizza, thirsty for aperol spritzes, and seriously craving La Carraia gelato! Can’t wait to hear about your Italy trips – tag me if you go to any of my faves so I can live vicariously through you! Ciao, bella!